If you are prone to acne and can’t completely get rid of those annoying dark spots left behind after each breakout, allow me to show you the microneedling method. We’ve talked to countless dermatologists about the benefits of microneedling and they can all agree: The treatment does it all.
Minimally invasive treatments can be used all over the body – from the scalp to the ankles – to improve the appearance of scars, boost collagen or encourage hair growth. Microneedling is also a standard treatment for fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, and stretch marks.
The practice dates back to 1995 but has gained significant traction in recent years thanks to new technology — and YouTube, TikTok, Instagram. As a result, the mesmerizing (albeit bloody) processing that pops up in tens of thousands of videos and before/after photos will prompt anyone to reserve the service in no time. Here, dermatologist Macrene Alexiades, MD, PhD, who has published extensive research on microneedling, Yale clinical professor and dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD elucidate multi-purpose treatments.
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Microneedling creates microscopic holes in the skin.
Simply put, microneedling is the introduction of very small, sterilized needles into the skin for rejuvenation. “When the skin senses these pins and needles, your body naturally rushes to heal them, resulting in a plumper, younger-looking appearance,” says Alexiades. The most popular (and cost-effective) microneedling device, one smooth skin, which includes micro needles ranging in diameter from 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm. But if the prospect of a lot of tiny needles seems a little daunting to you, know that pinhole-like punctures are only superficially deep.
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You can get it at the office or make it at home.
However, those looking to change their skin should seek out in-office treatments. “The benefit of having the virus implanted by your dermatologist is that it can be done with PRP, which makes it more effective,” says Gohara. But the drawback is that you have to arrange time for the treatment and it can be more expensive. “If you do it at home, it’s less efficient, but you can do it as you please.”
In general, clinic treatments use slightly sharper needles, which are safe when used by a professional. Home devices still work, but they can be a lot gentler to reduce the risk of injury. If you choose home microbiology, make sure you’re using clean, disinfected equipment to prevent infection.
Microneedling provides fairly immediate results.
“From just microneedling, you’ll look plump, rosy and radiant in a matter of weeks. Essentially short term, it plumps up the skin and makes it look more radiant due to inflammation and swelling very quickly,” says Alexiades. However, because the effectiveness of microneedling comes from the skin’s own healing process, some people may only see visible results after a few treatment sessions. But microneedling also promises to improve over time. Treating the skin with multiple rounds of microneedling at least a month apart can produce an increase in collagen and skin elasticity.
You can supercharge it with serum.
“I like to use a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid with an exfoliant,” says Gohara. “I enjoy the opportunity to drive in a hydrated state. Antioxidants and niacinamide are also favorites.” We also love a serum-infused sheet mask right after an at-home beauty session.
KNC Beauty The Big Set Masks
SkinCeuticals SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic (1 fl. Oz.)
Ingleton MD Skin Calming Booster
There have been significant breakthroughs this year.
“Radiofrequency microneedling uses complementary needle technology to deliver radiofrequency energy into the dermis,” says Gohara of the in-office option. “Radiofrequency energy heats the dermis, stimulates collagen production and tightens tissue.”
Microneedling can also reduce cellulite.
Alexiades works with a range of new microneedling devices such as Candela’s Profound. She uses the machine to treat wrinkles that look like wrinkles as well as sagging and rough skin.
Your exfoliator blends well with other skin care treatments.
Alexiades recommends combining microneeding with topical treatments (like her High performance face cream) and lasers. “Typically, we use this as an opportunity to apply anti-aging preparations that will penetrate better through the needle puncture. When you combine it with topicals, you get a chance to build collagen. When combined with radiofrequency, you can see tissue tightening for months,” she says.
DIY microneedling is legal…
Nurse Jamie Healthy Skin Solution Nurse Jamie Beauty Stamp Micro Exfoliator
As long as your dermatologist approves! Gohara notes that people with eczema, rosacea, acne, keloids, and perioral dermatitis should avoid self-needling, as it can cause flare-ups or scarring. For a gentle introduction to at-home skin care, try the Beauty Stamp from renowned skincare expert Nurse Jamie. The hand tool works as the name suggests, stamping the skin with micro-needle tips designed to boost the effectiveness of topical treatments and boost collagen (just like a traditional topical skin medication). Again, it’s always important to clean your microneedling tools before use, even if you’re the only one using them. When in doubt, ask your skin type.
Possible OD on microneedling.
“Regular use of microneedles can lead to broken capillaries and make the skin look like plastic if you overuse it with microneedle insults,” says Alexiades. Instead, avoid dependence on emollients by following the plan once a month and always allowing for full recovery between sessions.
You need to be gentle on your skin after microneedling.
“Let the skin cool down after microneedling,” says Gohara. “For the rest of the day, don’t wash your skin, expose it to extreme heat, or sweat excessively (i.e. no sun, no gym, no hot yoga).” Instead, shop for skin-loving products like the ones below:
Hyper Skin Hyper Clear Brightening Serum
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Black Girl Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30
Naturopathica Naturopathica Calendula Essential Hydrating Cream (1.7 fl. Oz.)
How do you know it’s working?
Marks will be less visible, wrinkles will be smoother, and your skin’s overall quality will be healthier.
The microneedling method alone gives only temporary results.
Alexiades notes that a recent study by the AAD found that the use of microneedling alone may provide temporary, not lasting results. “As my 10+ years of research has shown, you must combine microneedles with radiofrequency to reduce wrinkles and long-term scarring and improve skin quality,” explains Alexiades.
